Earthdog Startup Training

By Joyce Moore

A Very Brief History of Earthdogs

I say "Very Brief" because this is a most interesting topic and would qualify as a newsletter article unto itself. 

Over two hundred years ago terriers and dachshunds were bred to hunt vermin in their native lands. They were commonly used to bolt fox, otter, weasel and badger from their dens in the earth, the rocks and the rock cairns. The dachshund was widely used in Germany on badger; the name means "badger hound". I will not address the "evolution" of the dachshund and various terrier breeds but their histories are long and varied and quite colorful. 

In the mid-1800s, at the first British dog show in New Castle, England, most terrier breed standards were originally established. These descriptions or standards were developed by dedicated hunters/terriermen. They were somewhat specific by defining the working roles and characteristics of each particular breed. When these "recognized" terriers and the dachshund breeds were brought into the United States, it was primarily for the sport of showing, with little intent given to the dogs working abilities. Thus, for a number of years working terriers and dachshunds were not used or tested as they had been in their country of origin, instead becoming common sights in the show ring.

Working Terrier/Dachshund Clubs

Terrier clubs in the United States began appearing in the early 1900's with the American Sealyham Terrier Club sponsoring its first group hunts in 1913. A Working Certificate was awarded to any Sealyham completing the requirements of the hunt. These hunts did not involve use of artificial earths/dens. 

The US Dachshund Field Trial Club, in 1935, made an effort to provide controlled training for their breed. The system they used was patterned after the artificial den trials once held in Germany. It was a complicated set of tunnels, about 50 yards in length; a fox ran freely within the tunnels and a dog would be released to locate and interact with the fox. This system (preparing the dens, locating a “friendly” fox, training of the dogs and conducting the trials) was so labor intensive that it was discontinued shortly after it began due to the amount of work involved. 

In 1971, Patricia Lent was instrumental (along with a little help from several New Yorkers) in organizing the American Working Terrier Association (AWTA). The first artificial trial was held in Geneseo, NY on June 5, 1971. A Certificate of Gameness (CG) was awarded for any qualified working terrier or dachshund that successfully completed the Open Class (traversing a 30-foot tunnel, with 3 ninety-degree angles and working the quarry - rats). Rules included a specified time limit both for approaching the quarry and working the quarry. The AWTA also offered a Working Certificate (WC) for qualifying work in a below ground natural earth and a Hunting Certificate (HC) for qualifying work in an above ground situation. 

The Jack Russell Terrier Club of America den trials began in 1976, adopting the AWTA’s rules for den preparation and testing. Later their dens and rules were customized to fit the specialized instincts and abilities of the Jack Russell Terrier. 

In 1994, the AKC established the earthdog performance event for specified terrier breeds and dachshunds. This was a big breakthrough for AKC terrier and dachshund owners who had long lobbied for some form of titled recognition that would test their dog’s natural instincts. 

It is important to note that the performance clubs mentioned above do not include every club formed prior to 1994. Those mentioned were significant in that they pioneered trends that led to tests/trials as we know them today, with the AWTA being the greatest influence on the AKC testing system.

When to Start

Some people believe a dog must begin as a puppy to become a good earthdog. This is not so. Even an older dog, whose instincts have never been challenged but lay beneath the surface waiting for that special moment to arrive, may prove to be the finest working terrier or dachshund in the kennel. 

So, the time to start is as soon as you get the first opportunity to introduce your dog/puppy to this world. The success of the dog depends almost entirely upon his instincts; it is up to you to offer your dog the challenges and opportunities to awaken his natural instincts and start him (and yourself) on a road to many happy hours of fun and enjoyment. 

Earthdogs are very intelligent and become bored with any rote process. When it becomes boring, the risk arises that the dog may lose interest completely. Too much time spent working a dog with the caged rat or through an artificial earth/den can be the kiss of death to what might otherwise be a promising earthdog “career”.

Training Techniques

Rat/Cage Training

The word “dog” is used in reference to both dogs and puppies. When there are exceptions, they will be qualified.  I suggest that you start with the dog by getting him used to a rat in a cage. Place a laboratory rat (purchased from a pet store) in a wire cage. Cage size should be approximately 8”x8”x6”. Place the cage with the rat in it on the ground. The dog should be on a long leash.

He may show interest without any encouragement but if he’s never seen a rat/mouse, he may ignore it or pay little attention. If necessary, tap on the cage or jiggle it to arouse his interest. Do not talk to him constantly; simply use the chosen phrase “Get the rats” (or whatever you might prefer) and let him investigate without interference. 

If your dog appears timid or very cautious, allow him time to investigate the cage without any interference. He may, after surveying the situation on his own for a time, begin to slowly work as his instincts surface. Don’t overwhelm him with your excitement at anytime during his training. When/if he begins to work, try to curtail your praise but continue to repeat the chosen phrase. 

Once the dog is showing interest in the quarry, you should attempt to increase his attention. More active movement of the cage may do this. Move the cage behind you and, finally, when he’s showing strong assertiveness, move the cage toward him. Be careful not to use too much aggressiveness in directing the cage at him – this could serve to frighten him. Take it slow and carefully watch his reaction. This maneuver, when performed properly, is used to elicit a more aggressive interest that will eventually result in his barking, biting or attacking the cage. 

The above training is not something you should hope to accomplish in a short period of time. NEVER push or force any of the training on your dog – remember to go at his pace, giving him confidence as he progresses. 

I suggest you not try all of the above in one day with a puppy. These exercises should be attempted over a period of time with any dog; otherwise, he may be overwhelmed and it may set him back rather than move him forward. 

An adult dog, depending on the strengths of his instincts, may easily accomplish the cage training in one or two sessions. However, if he needs more work, do not push him. 

It is good to have a partner working with you in the training from here on. At this point in training, you will be taking steps to get your dog to show more aggressiveness towards the rats by performing those acts of “work” (barking, scratching, digging, biting, etc.) that he must demonstrate in an actual test. Keep the dog on a leash and have your working partner maintain the dog’s interest in the caged rat. Once he is showing intensity toward getting to the rat, introduce a “chase” as part of the training. 

To do this, take the rat from the original cage (out of sight of the dog), place him in a second cage and use the original cage with a furry scented toy inside. Tie a light line to the cage and have your partner drag it along the ground. Encourage the dog to chase and catch the cage. 

Once he does this and begins to bite and pounce on the cage you must restrict his contact with the cage by holding the base of his tail or his chest (in the case of a dachshund). Praise him gently but never let him quite get to the cage. This frustration should cause him to start barking which is what you’re striving for. When he does bark, again praise him. When this occurs, practice with him again to be sure he has the idea. When he has reached this level, you will have prepared your dog for “working the quarry” once he arrives at the rats (through the tunnel). 

In the above cage training, repeatedly use the word “rat” or your other chosen word so the dog attaches this word to the function.

Basic Tunnel Training

You will observe throughout the training different responses from pups vs. mature dogs. Pups will tend to be more tentative and less aggressive while the mature dog, most of the time, will display interest as long as the quarry is present. 

Start with a straight piece of PVC pipe, cardboard rolls (obtained, usually free of charge, from carpet stores, hardware stores or any type of business that carries large products delivered to them in a roll). Any type of tube that allows the dog to move through without constriction will serve the purpose. Place this on level ground and try different things to entice the dog through the tunnel/den. Use the rat cage at one end while you or your partner enters the dog from the opposite end. 

Tap the tunnel and use the same phrase you have been using when working with the caged rat; e.g., “Get the rats”. If he does not come through on his own, tie some twine to the cage and take it through the tunnel so it rests at his end (just inside the entrance). Have your partner pull the cage through and the pup should follow. Do not become discouraged and don’t EVER force your dog into the tunnel. This is a sure-fire way to cause him to lose interest and balk at any attempt to get him to enter into this activity. When the dog does go through and gets to the rats, remember to praise him softly. Continue to slowly pull the cage out from the tunnel while he is working. Repeat this exercise several times but not to the point of tedium for the dog. 

Once he is confidently going through the single piece of tunnel (not necessarily the same day), place an elbow (which you can purchase at a plumbing supply house) on the straight pipe/roll and add a second length of pipe. This will introduce him to a ninety-degree angle. First try repeating the same process used in the straight den (without dragging the rat cage through). If he balks or refuses to go past the turn, place the rat cage at the turn (so he can see it) and drag it through from there. 

When he has mastered this, it’s time to introduce him to the below ground tunnel. Your dog should always be started in a ten-foot tunnel, having one ninety-degree turn. The tunnel should be identical to the regulation tunnel used in the Introduction to Quarry class at AKC earthdog tests. Bars should be installed at the end of the tunnel. Scent the ground all the way through the ten feet of tunnel. Carefully attempt to enter him, with your partner acting as “judge” and holding the rat cage at the end of the tunnel. 

You must be very patient, again not forcing; going into an underground earth is a different experience and can be very intimidating to some dogs. If none of your coaxing entices him to enter, you may try the same tactics you used in the above ground training. When he goes through and is actively working for 20-30 seconds, remove him, immediately take him back to the entrance and repeat the process 2 or 3 times to impress it upon him. He should be ready at this point for his first official AKC earthdog test.

What Now

There are several things you may do now to keep him interested. 

One is to get together with friends (at the home of someone with buried tunnels) and have a fun day. This is a great way to get in some informal practice and give your dog training in a “simulated” test environment. 

Secondly, look for the next AKC Earthdog Test in your area; we have about six per year in our area now and with the formation of our new club (Rocky Mountain Goal Diggers) we will be adding additional tests very soon. At his first official test, and perhaps subsequent ones, he should be entered in the Introduction to Quarry class. 

When he can complete this class with confidence, he may move up to the Junior Earthdog class and begin to compete for his first AKC earthdog title. It is important that you do not advance him to the JE class until he has shown enough confidence and aggression toward the quarry to move to a “higher” level of testing.

Next Issue

I will have a Part II of this article in the next issue of the Mad Ratter. If you will phone (970-667-1163) or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it )'; document.write( '' ); document.write( addy_text28185 ); document.write( '<\/a>' ); //--> This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it me your questions concerning Earthdog Training, I will be happy to answer them in the second installment of the article. Also, at that time, I will give you a list of our club members (names, phone numbers and/or email addresses) that have underground earths and are willing to conduct practice sessions. Finally, I want to recommend an excellent book on any and everything to do with earthdogs. The book is Earthdog In’s and Out’s and it is included below in my Bibliography. This is by far the best book, on this subject, to be found on the market today. I believe it has enough good information to answer most questions or curiosities you may have concerning this sport.

Earthdog In’s and Out’s
Frier-Murza, JoAnn
www.earthdog.info

Sport with Terriers
Lent, Patricia Adams
Arner Publications, 1973

The Complete Jack Russell Terrier
Plummer, Brian D.
Howell Book House
The BoydellPress, 1980